Guidebooks. The Upper Peninsula has two excellent guidebooks. One for Rock and one for Ice. Both can be purchased at Down Wind Sports or at the following links:
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ROCK CLIMBING AREAS
AAA Wall - BIG BAY
The Big Bay area is one of the best areas in Marquette County for climbing because of its variety and quantity of climbing. It’s not uncommon on a nice weekend to find other people out there from all over the area either learning to climb on The Friction Slab or testing their strength on the various test pieces on Main Wall. Besides the variety of climbs, each route has unique character and demands different techniques. When the crag was first “discovered” and climbed, people focused on The Friction Slab and Bud’s Wall, small crag hidden above the Main Wall. It didn’t take to long for people to start looking and tackling the harder lines located on the Main Wall. Today, the Big Bay area has a number of bolted lines, top ropes and good bouldering.
SECRET CRAG - BIG BAY
The “Secret Crag” was discovered where Kelly Laakso and Bill Thompson worked out a few initial routes in the late 1990’s. In Bill’s words … “The Secret Crag was discovered the winter of 1997-1998 when I was doing a dog sledding trip. With a team of 8 dogs I traveled past the crag which was exposed due to the lack of leaves on the trees. I contacted Kelly Laasko who is much more talented than I, to help develop the crag the summer of 1998. We decided that we would let the other locals know about the Secret Crag as soon as we were able to get up something. Little did we know that it would take most of the summer to finish the routes. Run Kelly Run was the short difficult climb that I completed and was named after we both stepped into a wasp nest on the approach to the crag. After screaming like little girls and retreating to the car I decided on the name. Kelly completed Falling Zebras and we told the rest of the community about the new crag. Mark Wilford came up in the Fall and completed The Wilford Route which was originally named “Limp Wrist” but changed by locals after Mark left the area.”
The Big Bay area is one of the best areas in Marquette County for climbing because of its variety and quantity of climbing. It’s not uncommon on a nice weekend to find other people out there from all over the area either learning to climb on The Friction Slab or testing their strength on the various test pieces on Main Wall. Besides the variety of climbs, each route has unique character and demands different techniques. When the crag was first “discovered” and climbed, people focused on The Friction Slab and Bud’s Wall, small crag hidden above the Main Wall. It didn’t take to long for people to start looking and tackling the harder lines located on the Main Wall. Today, the Big Bay area has a number of bolted lines, top ropes and good bouldering.
SECRET CRAG - BIG BAY
The “Secret Crag” was discovered where Kelly Laakso and Bill Thompson worked out a few initial routes in the late 1990’s. In Bill’s words … “The Secret Crag was discovered the winter of 1997-1998 when I was doing a dog sledding trip. With a team of 8 dogs I traveled past the crag which was exposed due to the lack of leaves on the trees. I contacted Kelly Laasko who is much more talented than I, to help develop the crag the summer of 1998. We decided that we would let the other locals know about the Secret Crag as soon as we were able to get up something. Little did we know that it would take most of the summer to finish the routes. Run Kelly Run was the short difficult climb that I completed and was named after we both stepped into a wasp nest on the approach to the crag. After screaming like little girls and retreating to the car I decided on the name. Kelly completed Falling Zebras and we told the rest of the community about the new crag. Mark Wilford came up in the Fall and completed The Wilford Route which was originally named “Limp Wrist” but changed by locals after Mark left the area.”
PHIL'S HILL - MARQUETTE
Phil's Hill is a small 20-25 foot crag hidden in the forest off the "Railroad Grade" road/trail across from Marquette Mountain Ski Area. The crag was discovered in the winter of 1993 by Phil Watts as he cross country skied along the Railroad Grade snowmobile trail below. Phil referred to cliff as the Secret Crag however, overtime, the Phil’s Hill name finally stuck.
The rock provides nice steep crimpy climbing with some very fun moves. NOTE - The given ratings are for "on sight" top-rope ascents. Most of the routes are a bit beta-intensive and feel easier once you are familiar with the routes and holds.
Safety - The top sections of the crag can be very loose, so topping out is not recommended. There are no bolts and gear protection is minimal to non-existent for most routes. Top-rope anchors consist of small trees, some are 40 foot or more back from the edge. Use multiple anchors and be kind to the small trees.
Phil's Hill is a small 20-25 foot crag hidden in the forest off the "Railroad Grade" road/trail across from Marquette Mountain Ski Area. The crag was discovered in the winter of 1993 by Phil Watts as he cross country skied along the Railroad Grade snowmobile trail below. Phil referred to cliff as the Secret Crag however, overtime, the Phil’s Hill name finally stuck.
The rock provides nice steep crimpy climbing with some very fun moves. NOTE - The given ratings are for "on sight" top-rope ascents. Most of the routes are a bit beta-intensive and feel easier once you are familiar with the routes and holds.
Safety - The top sections of the crag can be very loose, so topping out is not recommended. There are no bolts and gear protection is minimal to non-existent for most routes. Top-rope anchors consist of small trees, some are 40 foot or more back from the edge. Use multiple anchors and be kind to the small trees.
CLIFF'S RIDGE - MARQUETTE
One of Marquette's historic crags. It is a 70' tall quartzite cliff outside of town. Routes can be top-roped. Also, there are several good trad climbs.
One of Marquette's historic crags. It is a 70' tall quartzite cliff outside of town. Routes can be top-roped. Also, there are several good trad climbs.
SUGARLOAF - MARQUETTE
One of the older crags in the Marquette area, Sugarloaf Mountain Natural Area is owned by Marquette County and located in Marquette Township. Sugarloaf Mountain is also one of the most popular scenic overlooks on the central Upper Peninsula coastline offering spectacular views from the mountain's summit 470 feet above Lake Superior. The area offers two separate smaller crags as well as bouldering opportunities.
One of the older crags in the Marquette area, Sugarloaf Mountain Natural Area is owned by Marquette County and located in Marquette Township. Sugarloaf Mountain is also one of the most popular scenic overlooks on the central Upper Peninsula coastline offering spectacular views from the mountain's summit 470 feet above Lake Superior. The area offers two separate smaller crags as well as bouldering opportunities.
SUICIDE - NEGAUNEE
Halfway between Negaunee and Ishpeming is this little sport crag. Super short approach. Well protected bolted routs from 5.17 to 5.12. It is almost like an outdoor climbing gym.
Halfway between Negaunee and Ishpeming is this little sport crag. Super short approach. Well protected bolted routs from 5.17 to 5.12. It is almost like an outdoor climbing gym.
PRESQUE ISLE - MARQUETTE
Presque Isle- or the “island” as true Yoopers call it, is located on a 323-acre forested oval-shaped peninsula which juts into Lake Superior just minutes from downtown Marquette. Designed with guidance from Frederick Law Olmstead, the park was home to the last chief of the local band of Ojibwe people, Charlie Kabagum and it has been a favorite destination since the settlement period of Marquette. Without a doubt, Presque Isle Park is Marquette’s most beloved attraction, offering residents and visitors year-round outdoor recreation opportunities literally minutes from town. The park’s jagged shoreline is more than two miles long and contains some of the oldest exposed rock formations in the world. Most of the park is undeveloped woodland including white birch and maple stands, accented with areas of virgin white pine and huge hemlock trees.
Originally called Pulpit Rock by local residents- The Pinnacle is without a doubt the most scenic and beloved crag in the Marquette area. Its moves are beautiful, never the same, a little pumpy and always gorgeous because it’s a free standing pillar close to Lake Superior. Treat yourself to an unforgettable sunrise climb at the Pinnacle.
Presque Isle- or the “island” as true Yoopers call it, is located on a 323-acre forested oval-shaped peninsula which juts into Lake Superior just minutes from downtown Marquette. Designed with guidance from Frederick Law Olmstead, the park was home to the last chief of the local band of Ojibwe people, Charlie Kabagum and it has been a favorite destination since the settlement period of Marquette. Without a doubt, Presque Isle Park is Marquette’s most beloved attraction, offering residents and visitors year-round outdoor recreation opportunities literally minutes from town. The park’s jagged shoreline is more than two miles long and contains some of the oldest exposed rock formations in the world. Most of the park is undeveloped woodland including white birch and maple stands, accented with areas of virgin white pine and huge hemlock trees.
Originally called Pulpit Rock by local residents- The Pinnacle is without a doubt the most scenic and beloved crag in the Marquette area. Its moves are beautiful, never the same, a little pumpy and always gorgeous because it’s a free standing pillar close to Lake Superior. Treat yourself to an unforgettable sunrise climb at the Pinnacle.
SLUGGS BLUFF - PALMER
Slugg's Bluff offers some of the best face and crack climbing in the Upper Peninsula! With an outstanding view of the Palmer Mine and the Palmer swamp, the area is known for its spectacular fall colors. If you want to cut your teeth on technical trad climbing, Slugg’s Bluff is where it’s at. Most of the climbs follow cracks, but there are few jams and often you will be face climbing with traditional gear. Also, Sluggs now has about 10 sport routes--mostly in the 5.8-5.10 range.
Slugg's Bluff offers some of the best face and crack climbing in the Upper Peninsula! With an outstanding view of the Palmer Mine and the Palmer swamp, the area is known for its spectacular fall colors. If you want to cut your teeth on technical trad climbing, Slugg’s Bluff is where it’s at. Most of the climbs follow cracks, but there are few jams and often you will be face climbing with traditional gear. Also, Sluggs now has about 10 sport routes--mostly in the 5.8-5.10 range.
TOP OF THE WORLD
Named for the overlook just to the north of the crag. This area has a short approach. It has four sport routes and several nice trad lines. A great little spot.
Named for the overlook just to the north of the crag. This area has a short approach. It has four sport routes and several nice trad lines. A great little spot.
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SILVER MOUNTAIN - OTTAWA NF
Silver Mountain is a sheer, 140-foot tall basalt cliff in the heart of the Ottawa National Forest, containing many quality sport and several fun trad routes. Well-protected with all stainless bolts and hangers. Grades 5.6-5.12d (something for everyone!) with several two-pitch routes. You can drive almost right up to the rock, and dispersed camping is allowed for up to 16 days in the national forest. Gas, groceries and other basic necessities available within a 25 minute drive. |
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Isabella - Palmer
Near Slugg's Bluff is a Isabella. It is overhanging and has a short approach. The Main Wall is one of the few areas that stays dry in a rain. |
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CARNEY CRAG - IRON MOUNTAIN
Located near Iron Mountain. South facing with great exposure and position. An excellent place to take your friends that are new to climbing, with a sub-ten minute approach hike through some classic U.P. state land. This crag is all quartzite and slippery when wet, the bolted routes are all well protected and there is a ton of room for top rope anchors.
Located near Iron Mountain. South facing with great exposure and position. An excellent place to take your friends that are new to climbing, with a sub-ten minute approach hike through some classic U.P. state land. This crag is all quartzite and slippery when wet, the bolted routes are all well protected and there is a ton of room for top rope anchors.
CLIFF DRIVE - COPPER COUNTRY
Excellent basalt cliff outcroppings up to 100+ feet tall. Holds some of the UP classics, such as JC Superstar.
Excellent basalt cliff outcroppings up to 100+ feet tall. Holds some of the UP classics, such as JC Superstar.
LITTLE PRESQUE ISLE BOUDERING - MARQUETTE
Little Presque Isle is small island north of Marquette. On the north side, there are dozens of granite boulders with problems ranging from V-easy to V-10. A note about safety - If the lake is wavy, or if there is a strong wind, skip this location. The rip currents have contributed to numerous drownings. To reach the island, you need to wade across in water that approaches chest height.
Little Presque Isle is small island north of Marquette. On the north side, there are dozens of granite boulders with problems ranging from V-easy to V-10. A note about safety - If the lake is wavy, or if there is a strong wind, skip this location. The rip currents have contributed to numerous drownings. To reach the island, you need to wade across in water that approaches chest height.
WETMORE LANDING BOULDERING - MARQUETTE
Wetmore Landing (just north of Marquette on 550) has a large concentration of granite boulders. Boulder problems range from V-easy to V-hard.
Wetmore Landing (just north of Marquette on 550) has a large concentration of granite boulders. Boulder problems range from V-easy to V-hard.
ICE CLIMBING AREAS -
PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE / GRAND ISLAND
With one of the largest concentrations of climbable ice in the country, and a huge lake that sets it apart from any other climbing area, Pictured Rocks and Grand Island are the premier destination for ice climbers in the Midwest.
Hundreds of climbs ranging from WI 2 to WI 6+ provide almost endless options for the adventurous climber. Access to climbs can be as simple as walking 100 yards off the road, or as adventurous as riding a snowmobile across the lake or skiing all day through silent forests. The area holds the vast majority of ice climbs in the Upper Peninsula and if you can only visit one spot, this is the one.
PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE / GRAND ISLAND
With one of the largest concentrations of climbable ice in the country, and a huge lake that sets it apart from any other climbing area, Pictured Rocks and Grand Island are the premier destination for ice climbers in the Midwest.
Hundreds of climbs ranging from WI 2 to WI 6+ provide almost endless options for the adventurous climber. Access to climbs can be as simple as walking 100 yards off the road, or as adventurous as riding a snowmobile across the lake or skiing all day through silent forests. The area holds the vast majority of ice climbs in the Upper Peninsula and if you can only visit one spot, this is the one.
MARQUETTE ICE -
There are several quality ice climbs around Marquette. Areas include Hidden Beach, Hog's Back, and Little Presque.
There are several quality ice climbs around Marquette. Areas include Hidden Beach, Hog's Back, and Little Presque.